Bonhoeffer
the sirens that called to Bonhoeffer
have woken me from my sleep
annoyed, I rub my face and eyes
and venture back under my sheets
“can’t you see that I am satisfied
with moldy bread and rotten cheese?
can’t you see that I am satisfied
with doing things the way I please?
I’d rather live a hundred years
of boring, selfish gain
than risk a loss of all my years
in the midst of your beauty and pain
so quiet your voices, ye Sirens,
and leave me to my sleep
with mansions and cable and fences
and the restless counting of sheep”
AT Day Hike PA 248
Day Hiking the AT is one of my favorite past-times when I visit Carbon County. My sister and I love finding access points and covering previously unseen miles. There is a 20 mile stretch of trail from Route 309 in Lynnport to Blue Mountain Drive in Danielsville that hosts our most well-known AT paths. The toughest portion of this stretch that we have encountered is at the entrance next to the Slatington Bridge. I am referring to the trail portion immediately off of 248, Northeast of the Lehigh River (40.782948392, -75.6038412117). It is a ridiculously rocky, excitingly challenging hike that is approximately 1 hour to the summit.
This portion of the trail is a small part of the journey through the Kittatinny Ridge. The ridge runs through PA in its course from Maryland to New Jersey. Locally, the mountains offer scenic views of the Lehigh River and a variety of intentionally placed plant species brought in for restoration after Zinc pollution.
The 248 trail is one of my favorite places to explore when I am ready for a significant challenge. After a steep dirt entrance ramp, the hike begins in a small parking area of loose gravel. You see the base of the mountain immediately in front of you although much of the trail is obscured by trees and rock faces. The first twenty minutes of the hike will take you on a steep but pleasant climb into the mountain. You will pass a nice view point of the river from a clearing immediately off the path, but know that more beautiful views await you. 20 minutes into the hike you will reach the first of a few places that will require using your hands and feet for a very short but nearly vertical climb. No part of this hike will require climbing gear beyond a good pair of boots and sturdy pants, but you will be forced to pull yourself up and lower yourself down over some very large rocks.
From the first boulder requiring a hands and feet climb, you will continue for about 20 minutes on the toughest portion of this hike. Much of this portion will require you to hike loose boulders and rocks with some peril of injury if you miss your food placement. On my most recent experience I constantly regretted my decision to carry an extra jacket under my arm since balance and attention are crucial to making enjoyable progress through the rock field. Some of the hike through the rocks will be quite horizontal but much will involve a steady climb in elevation. There a number of boulders large enough to use as a seat for a water break or even a romantic conversation mid-climb. A dramatic change in scenery will signal the end of the rock field with a quick return to forested land.
When you enter the forested land at the end of the rock field you are about 5 minutes away from summiting. Unfortunately, you will not have any more vistas between this point and the highest elevation of the hike. The trail will now climb gradually in dense trees and mountain grass. There is no clear moment that signals the climax in elevation. Instead you will climb and descend subtly as you come to the top of the mountain. At the summit you are approximately 5 miles from the next parking access to the AT, but I have not explored this portion of the trail. Typically for this hike I finish by retracing my steps down the mountain. Note that from my experience, it takes longer to return down the hill than it took to summit.
Epic Steps
One of my all time favorite concepts has an origin I can’t quite wrap my head around. It showed up on a website that was talking about television cliches and led me to a wikipedia article. These are not my typical rabbit trails. But the concept is philosophical gold.
The idea is that our favorite epics have a perfect pattern - one that you almost can’t avoid. Lord of the Rings, Spiderman, Mulan. Every plot depicts a core cycle, so the theory goes, and the cycle will repeat as long as tales are told. The cycle is character based, but it can repeat or replicate many times in a single work. Sometimes it is shared and other times it is shouldered by a single hero.
“The Hero’s Journey” is credited to Joseph Campbell and his writing explaining the “monomyth”. It was published in his book from 1949, at least 60 years before the concept fluttered onto my oversized college laptop. For an idealistic moment I tried to access and digest his original work, but practicality took over and I learned about the monomyth from this website
https://tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php/Main/TheHerosJourney
And this wikipedia article
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hero%27s_journey
I took this hodgepodge of cliches and patterns, sloshed it together with a wild theory that we live the monomyth, and sprinkled in some philosophy of memoirist Donald Miller. I walked out with a palatable but mysterious new perspective:
My day to day decisions are contributing to a story and I am walking around in a real life epic. My last failed romance walked the monomyth circle and my next great adventure will follow the same loop. A quick wit and an attractive figure invited me into an attempt to find love. A kind motherly figure in my community showed me the path to lasting romance and her pet dogs joined my journey to keep me company. A call and a mentor, companions that soothe the pains of drama. Do you see it all in the graphic? I leapt to the death and rebirth experience when I realized the combination of our two beautiful personalities created something toxic. I panicked, tried to keep afloat, and eventually ended the romance that had been blooming in the field and re-entered my singleness with a new understanding of myself and young adulthood.
I think we are living the monomyth every day. Life is an epic and remembering this makes me want to spend mine magnificently. I know I am not a superhero, a savior in a dystopian world, or a long awaited prince. Even so, I think I see clues of my future in the phases of the monomyth cycle. And I love making choices that affect the way my character will experience the phases of my story.
Madrid, Beyond Top 5
This Fall I made my third visit to Madrid. The classic stops like the Plaza Mayor, Puerta del Sol, and the Reina and Prado are well worth the time, but this trip tuve ganas de get to know some friends of mine who live in the city. They took me away from some of the most famous tourist spots and put me in the middle of some splendid lesser known experiences.
Let’s talk about some food options you might not have heard of. Breakfast is small in Spain - like toast and coffee small. But you can can make a date of it for about $6. One great option is Granier. Toast is always toast, but when you spread this cafe’s blended tomatoes on top it is quite special. Do the toast and coffee breakfast to keep things cheap but satisfying. The Granier I enjoyed was a 10 minute walk from the metro stop Santiago Bernabéu (and you can choose if you want to join the tourist crowds at Real Madrid’s stadium after breakfast). Another simple but delicious breakfast option is Fresh and Nature at the metro stop Puerta de Ángel. I have had empeñadas, smoked salmon wraps, and a variety of other treats here. I would recommend everything they sell.
Moving on to lunch and ice cream. This trip I met my friend at Las Brasas de Vulcano for the large mid day meal (4 minute walk from Metro stop Sol) We had a three course treat, the favored pattern for lunches in Spain. We both ordered cocido Madrileño, Madrid’s traditional bean dish. The first plate was a soup and noodle dish with bread. When we told the staff we were ready, they brought out the meats, chickpeas, and potatoes to enjoy as our second helping. We finished the meal with expressos and the option of dessert. My favorite dessert experiences in Madrid were ice cream/gelato shops. I visited a few in the city, but will suggest trying Llaollao. This shop sells a super tart and delicious frozen yogurt. You compliment it with extremely sweet toppings of your choice at the service bar. There is a shop near metro stop Gran Via and a less posh option in the mall at Metro Stop Principe Pío. Dinner is basically a snack in Spain, right before you go to sleep. So you can eat that at home and save some money.
Now let me tell you about two places of interest that double as emergency restrooms during a long day exploring the city. I love libraries, and my dad and I discovered one near the hustle and bustle of Puerta del Sol. Biblioteca Iván de Vargas (Calle d San Justo, 5) is a great place to duck out of the crowds. You can browse a legitimate collection of Spanish novels and non-fiction works and sit still in quiet peace. Secondly, the mall at metro stop Principe Pío is a respite for days you are far from home. This is a bit crowded, but it has free restrooms and many affordable (if not super tasty) options for a meal on the run.
Finally, two destinations for natural beauty. Lago is…well…what it sounds like! A beautiful man-made pond big enough to feel like a lake but located in Madrid! You can dine here or just sit and stare at the lovely fountain. It is a two minute walk from the metro (metro stop Lago), but it is one of the most peaceful places I have found in Madrid. For a bonus, walk past the water and enter the Caso de Campo park that stretches for miles. Technically in walking distance, but better as a separate trip is the Temple of Debod. This was gifted to Spain by Egypt, which boggles my mind! You can tour this Temple during day-time hours, but the park surrounding the structure is just as beautiful. There is even a viewpoint for sunsets overlooking the skyline of Madrid.
When it’s time to find a place to stay, well you’re on your own for that! I rented a room from friends and I would do that again at the drop of a hat. There are many hotel options in Madrid as well as some options more along the line of hostels. If you are traveling for immersion classes, your language school will often assist you in locating accommodations. Have a blast on your trip!
10 Days on the Camino Primitivo: Route and Lodging Highlights
10 Days on the Primitivo
Day 1
Began in: Villaviciosa
Ended in: Villaviciosa
Distance Walked: 0km
Slept at Hostel/Hotel: Alberque Hostel Villaviciosa
Recommendations: Do stay at the Alberque Hostel Villaviciosa. Do begin your Camino in Villaviciosa, even though it is 1-2 days before the official start of the Camino Primitivo
Special Notes: Beginning in Villaviciosa allows you the opportunity to walk the “enlace”, a beautiful path connecting the Camino de Norte to the beginning of the Camino Primitivo.
Day 2
Began in: Villaviciosa
Ended in: Polo de Siero
Approximate Distance Walked: 25km
Slept at Hostel/Hotel: Hotel de Norah on Av. Langreo in Polo de Siero
Recommendations: Do not stay at the government run hostel in Polo de Siero on Calle Celleruelo. It has a beautiful exterior, but the interior was not properly maintained against bed bugs. Do stay at the Hotel de Norah but know that it is about .25 miles from where Google Map thinks it is.
Special Notes: If you are not in tourist season you will have little to no opportunity to buy food/water until Peña de Casuca. Peña de Casuca is approximately midway on this journey. You will pass one prominent restaurant as you walk through the town. This business holds the keys to the town’s alberque. I had a very good menu of the day here at a good price.
Day 3
Began in: Polo de Siero
Ended in: Oviedo
Approximate Distance Walked: 13km
Slept in Hostel/Hotel: Iberik Santo Domingo Plaza Hotel in Oviedo
Recommendations: If you are traveling on a peak day, do not stay at the IBERIk. Stay instead at the Pension Romero (Calle Uria 38) if you are willing to sacrifice luxury for affordability.
Special Notes: Oviedo is definitely worth a two night stay. It was the only major city I entered on my ten day journey. Make sure you take advantage of both the opportunity for fabulous city life and the opportunity to purchase any supplies you may now realize you left at home.
Day 4
Began in: Oviedo
Ended in: Oviedo
Approximate Distance Walked: 0 Km of Camino. City walks and a Mountain Hike.
Slept in Hostel/Hotel: Pension Romero
Recommendations: Do take a zero day in Oviedo. Do visit the Sagrado Corazon de Jesus statue at the top of Mount Naranco. Do not walk on the highway to approach the statue. Do not lose your camino legs by taking excessive zero days.
Special Notes:
I have strange taste, but I had what I consider the most delicious food of my life in Oviedo - Ensalada de Cecina y Queso de Cabra y Cebolla Caramelizada. I ate this at La Doble Vida on Av de Galicia 16 in Oviedo. It was the first portion of the menu of the day. And it put the second portion to shame.
I had another unique experience in Oviedo this same day - buying cookies from Nuns. You only live once right? You can ring the doorbell at "Monasterio de la Visitación de Sta. María Monjas Salesas" in Oviedo during vendor hours if this piece of your life has been missing. The cookies aren’t that good, but the bragging rights last a lifetime.
Oviedo was the city where I ditched my bulky Walmart sleeping bag and traded it for a simple throw blanket. I did not regret it, but I would have been hurting if the seasons had turned any earlier.
Day 5
Began in: Oviedo
Ended in: Grado
Approximate Distance Walked: 23km
Slept at Hostel/Hotel: Alberque la Quintana c Eulogia Díaz Miranda 30 Grado
Recommendations: Do stay at the Alberque la Quintana. Do not be offended if the owner is brusque like the reviews note. Do use the laundromat ½ mile from this alberque if you need it.
Special Notes: I had trouble finding many options for eating in Grado. It is a small town and not too focused on tourism/hospitality for foreigners beyond the alberques.
Day 6
Began in: Grado
Ended in: Salas
Approximate Distance Walked: 21km
Slept at Hostel/Hotel: Alberque de la Campa, Salas.
Recommendations: Definitely opt in for the vegetarian meal that is the alberque’s specialty.
Special Notes: This town is one of the larger (still tiny) towns in the 10 day stretch. Multiple options for cafes for hot lunches or dinners. Some attractive cobblestone style streets.
Day 7
Began in: Salas
Ended in: Tineo
Approximate Distance Walked: 23km
Slept at Hostel/Hotel: Pension La Posada
Recommendations: Pension La Posada was not as carefully maintained as I prefer. This is an important factor on the Camino due to bed bug infestations. The hotel was comfortable and it had an opening on a night that many places were filling up.
Special Notes: In my experience, the Camino community was stronger from this day onward. It might have been partially my increased comfort and openness. But part of it was definitely just an increase in numbers of pilgrims. My heart made so many happy connections from the hostel in Grado the night before to the end of my hiking days.
Day 8
Began in: Tineo
Ended in: Pola de Allande
Approximate Distance Walked: 26km
Slept at Hostel/Hotel: La Nueva Allendesa in Pola de Allande
Recommendations: The Nueva Allendesa Pension was beautiful and tasteful but its location and structure left me feeling frighteningly cold all night after a hard day’s hike.
Special Notes: Consider deviating from my trail distance described above, even though that will require altering the next day too. This 28km route was a painful undertaking this day. Hard routes and sparse opportunities to eat/resupply.
Day 9
Began in: Pola de Allande
Ended in: Berducedo
Approximate Distance Walked: 20km
Slept at Hostel/Hotel: Alberque Bar Restaurante Camino Primitivo. Berducedo is a shockingly small town. The pilgrims appear to double the population when they roll in.
Recommendations: If you overnight in Berducedo I highly recommend the alberque I stayed at, noted above. Be aware that it has almost the exact name as another alberque listed online. Be aware that this day is your opportunity to view the infamous Hospitales portion of the Camino Primitivo if you choose to travel this extra challenging route.
Special Notes: Berducedo is a shockingly small town. It has the disadvantage of some lack of cleanliness and comfort, but the advantage of being a unique and inspiring place to experience.
Day 10
Began in: Berducedo
Ended in: Vistalegre
Approximate Distance Walked: 15km
Slept at Hostel/Hotel: Hotel Las Grandas
Recommendations: Do not stay overnight at Hotel Las Grandas. There is no cell reception in this area and the hotel wifi is only shared in the bar/lobby. It is not conducive to planning or restructuring hiking plans. Continue hiking until you reach Grandas de Salime proper.
Special Notes: The views on this day’s path competed for my favorites of the entire journey. But there were so many fantastic views over the 10 days that I never tried to rank them.
Trip-Long Insights
Gronze.com is a lifesaver for finding alberques, alberque reviews, path details, and distances between towns. With this free service and google maps you have everything you need for navigation and lodging info.
Caminoways.com is geared towards trapping tourists, but it has some decent info to peruse before you start the Camino.
A ballpark figure for a pleasant full day’s hike is 25km. I adopted this measure from a fit 60 year old Frenchman. It fit me well as a 30 year old occasional backpacker. At this rate you can reach your sleeping locations by approximately 4pm on a given day, even with a peaceful lunch at a mid-point restaurant.
Many of the towns on the Primitivo are too small to have a self-service laundromat. You can often do wash in an alberque machine, but that was a step too far into community living for me.
Everyone is different but I’d recommend a 3 pants, 4 shirts, 5 socks, 5 underwear setup. That’s my high estimate with an emphasis on comfort over weight control.
In 2021 non-peak season a lush albuquerque (clean and comfortable) was 12-16 Euros a night. A hotel was 35-65 Euros a night. If you are willing to brave the government run alberques you can hit 7 Euros a night.
My preferred eating schedule was the following: Bread or nothing for breakfast so that I did not need to make a sit-down bathroom stop before lunch.. Lots of water in the AM. A huge lunch and a comfortable indoor bathroom visit. Lots of water in the PM. Chocolate, peanuts, bakery items for dinner. Maybe a hot dinner/second lunch at the alberque if it was offered.
In the off season, you can quite often book a room in the morning for that same night. This is nice because it allows flexibility and adventure. After Oviedo the number of pilgrims increased and the existing hotels/hostels were limited in number. I started to make a habit of booking at least 30 hours in advance. Even with that habit I felt like I was almost stranded a couple times.
Want an in-person guide for a tailored adventure?
I can guide you through Philly, NYC, parts of the AT, Spain, and Honduras. I have a knack for well-planned adventures and first hand experience in each location.
robertctimlin@gmail.com +34 691 78 46 35
Oviedo, Spain Day 2
Day 4 was intended as a zero day, as in zero miles. A day to recover and enjoy the sights of the city. The thing is, I live my life like a kitten chasing their favorite yarn ball. I rarely convince myself to rest and do nothing. So instead of taking a zero day in the city and lounging in the local haunts, I decided to hike up a mountain.
The call to climb hit me while I was washing laundry in the city laundromat. There was a giant statue of Jesus staring down at me from a mountain. In my opinion, Jesus is the coolest of all time. (Or am I supposed to say the coolest beyond time?) And here was a giant statue of Him right next door to my city. Probably close enough to walk to - if I wasn’t on a zero day. Then again, I wasn’t confident of returning to Oviedo EVER IN MY LIFE, and technically I was on a pilgrimage, and wasn’t visiting a Jesus statue so much more valuable than seeing the empty church buildings on my official route? My thoughts did circles with my hiking clothes in the dryer.
And so I found myself a couple hours later, “ONLY” walking toward the base of the mountain. And then not stopping when I had to cross a city mile and a giant park to finish getting to the base of the mountain. And then asking an elderly lady who looked upset with the world how long it would take to get to the top of the mountain. And then skittering up the trail hoping that the nasty brewing storm that was blowing toward the peak would skip over me - maybe in the name of a miracle for someone trying to go see a Jesus statue. I went to the very top on my non-zero day. Past a couple of tourist bars strategically placed where you might want water or a spectacular view from the cliff-side. Past a lot of cars on a windy mountain road I probably didn’t need to use. I am convinced there was a dirt trail somewhere for the people who knew two bits about the area. Up and around and up and around. And I made it to the top.
It was a super cool sight to see the statue up close. I think it was about 40 feet tall. The mountain is called Mount Naranco and I highly recommend you check it out if you are in Oviedo. I was feeling stubborn about not using a car during my portion of the camino, but you can drive all but the last 5 minutes to the statue if you are short on time.
To make a surprise hike even more memorable, I found nun cookies on my way home from the mountain. My friends back home had explained that some of the nuns in Spain sell cookies to the general public and you can buy them if you stumble upon a church with this practice. I was tickled pink when I realized the banner I was looking at was a sign for nun cookies and I purchased a box of the snacks from the cathedral.
I ended the day in a very simple but splendidly clean pension. The Pension Romero, Calle Uria 38 in Oviedo. After sampling the cookies I laid down in bed exhausted and had a beautiful night’s sleep. I ate a few more cookies the next morning before tossing them out in a nearby trashcan. When all of your possessions are in your hiking bag, you’ve got to pack simply.
Want an in-person guide for a tailored adventure?
I can guide you through Philly, NYC, parts of the AT, Spain, and Honduras. I have a knack for well-planned adventures and first hand experience in each location.
robertctimlin@gmail.com +34 691 78 46 35
Oviedo, Spain Day 1
This Fall I hiked into Oviedo and decided to stay an extra night in the center. I was a few days into a personal portion of the Camino de Santiago. The morning we spent walking into the city, my companions kept talking it up. “It has everything you could need for the rest of your hike” “If you are missing supplies, this is the place to get them” These sentiments meshed with the other praise I had heard about Oviedo and my image of our destination took on a rosy and holy glow. Surely it would be beautiful, an amazing distraction from the pain of the hike with balms to cure all woes.
Reality is a buzz-kill. My first impression of the city outskirts was an ugly highway and miles of unpleasant hiking sights. We entered the city center with the assumption that it would be easy to find a tourist office to orient ourselves to our temporary home. Our lack of preparation left us wandering up and down steep confusing sidewalks that seemed to spawn without logic from a non-existant center. But after a gruff introduction, Oviedo would win me over. As I started to feel the pulse of the city, I saw the life in its streets and its clever charm.
I said my goodbyes to my days’ companions and went off in search of a hotel. When I enter a city on the Camino, it’s a big win if I can drop my bag at my hostel or hotel early in the afternoon. That leaves time to enjoy the sights and eat in peace before the preparation for the morning departure. And this time I had the double luxury of planning to stay two nights. The world was my oyster.
There was a cute tourist train near the place I left my companions and I was a bit shocked to find out it was free and ready for passengers. I hopped on sweaty and smelly, happy to rest my legs while a machine showed me the sights of center city. I saw a park, some shops, and some restaurants before we pulled back into the open square in the shadow of the cathedral. I called a couple of hotels to find a safe place for the night and used google maps to locate one that seemed like a win.
I checked into one of the fancier hotels of my hike before dinner - The IBERIK Santo Domingo Plaza Hotel. I felt out of place at the checkout desk and feared they would change their mind when they saw my sweaty stubble and sniffed my sweaty torso. It seems though, that the tourist industry in Spain is happy to cater to smelly pilgrims. A room rental is a room rental. I dropped my bag in my room in a bit of a weary daze, but quickly took off for the streets to explore my 2 day home.
One of the first things that swayed my perception of the city was a parir of knock-off crocs. I had been hoping and hoping to find shower shoes - more or less an essential for this type of journey - and I found the perfect pair in a dollar store. Heart smiling, I devoured a couple of 2 Euro sandwiches under the awning of a grocery store to avoid a brief deluge of rain. I popped open my umbrella and stumbled upon the Museo de Bellas Artes de Asturias. With a mind to avoid the rain, I asked the price of entry and found out it was free. On a non-stop win streak I explored the abundant, impressive works of art in the center of Oviedo. When the rain died down I walked back to my luscious hotel room, feeling like a spoiled guest in a home he had never known.
Want an in-person guide for a tailored adventure?
I can guide you through Philly, NYC, parts of the AT, Spain, and Honduras. I have a knack for well-planned adventures and first hand experience in each location.
robertctimlin@gmail.com +34 691 78 46 35
Villaviciosa, Spain
I woke up before my alarm and, too excited to go back to sleep, took my first rested steps in Villaviciosa. My friends had dropped me at the Air B+B the night before, and I had muddled exhaustedly through the introductions to the hosts. Now I descended curiously to the entry level of the building and stepped into a quiet street.
Villaviciosa is the perfect place for a restful adventure. You are an easy commute from surfing lessons and all kinds of fishing, and the Camino de Santiago runs right through “town-center”. The villa is microscopic. The business sector is one street and you can walk it North to South in 15 minutes. The culture and beauty of the town settled deep in my heart.
Villaviciosa City Council building is a great point of reference for directions. I gathered here with 100 townsfolk for the local holiday in the Villa’s 751st year of existence! I listened to amazing music performed by Banda Gaites Villaviciosa - El Gaitero. Check it out and see a glimpse of the villa while you listen.
From City Council there is beauty in every direction. Walk the steep Plaza de Ayuntamiento Eastward to view cows and rustic farm buildings. If you walk 20 minutes you will ascend to even tinier towns nestled on the hill. Walk North from City Hall and you can find horses grazing and open marshes that change with every ocean tide. To the West of City Hall you will find cafes on the main street ready for guests. South of center you can enter the Camino and travel by foot towards Oviedo.
It is easy to find the essentials while you are staying in the villa. Minymas and Día are central and will not require any vehicle if you shop here for your groceries. To save some money you can take a 15 minute walk to Mercadona and find a wider selection of food and treats. Mercadona will also supply any hygiene or essential home living items you are searching for during your trip.
If you tire of provincial life, you can travel to the beach or a nearby city. Rodillas is a beautiful ocean bay and you can easily arrive there with the buses from Villaviciosa. Llanes is a 45 minute drive and the town is marvelous and full of ocean views. There is some delicious ice cream in town center and I am sure the other food is splendid. Finally, you are only 40 minutes by car from the famous Oviedo, Spain!